Squamish Gardeners’ Club

General Meeting

September 17th, 2007

 

 

 

Carla Halvorson Burke chaired the meeting, and opened by thanking members for weeding the library gardens.  She welcomed new members Joan and Tim (?), and returning member Freda Hoff.

 

Moira Biggin-Pound moved that the minutes of the previous meeting be accepted,   seconded by Colleen Winterburn, passed by the meeting.

 

As Dorte Frolev was away there was no Treasurer’s Report, except that in the newsletter.  Ellen Grant was also away, so there was no newsletter report.  Dave Colwell reported that the minutes and newsletter were available on our website;  he asked for pictures from the Fall Fair.

 

The plant swap will precede the October meeting, which will hopefully be held at the Railway Park.  Carol Robson will inform the membership if there is to be a change in the venue.

 

Lois Sutherland, who ordered the Christmas wreaths last year is away.

 

There will be a meeting of the Executive on Thursday, September 20th.

 

Nairn Stewart reported on behalf of the Program Committee.  The date for the Social in December will have to be confirmed when Dorte returns.

 

On October 15 the speaker will be Chris Woods, the new director (as of September 2006) of the Van Dusen Botanical Garden.  His topic will be A Passion for Plants.  Mr. Woods is originally from England and began his apprenticeship in horticulture at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.  He worked at three other gardens in the UK before moving to the US in 1981.  There he has worked as Director and Chief Garden Designer of Chanticleer, Vice President for Horticulture and External Operations for the Santa Barbara Botanical Garden, and Executive Director of the Ojai Valley Land Conservancy in Ojai, California.  He has been a consultant for a number of other gardens and horticultural projects.  He has written numerous articles as well as The Encyclopedia of Perennials: A Gardener's Guide (1992).   In 2003 he was awarded the Professional Citation for significant achievements in public horticulture by the American Public Garden Association.

 

 

Nairn then turned the meeting over to the Speaker, Gerry Gibbens.  Mr. Gibbens worked for the Vancouver Parks Board, and then moved to Windsor Great Park in the UK, specialising in rhododendrons.  In 1980 he started working at the Van Dusen Gardens particularly in the Himalayan Garden.  He is president of the Alpine Gardens Club of B.C.  His topic was Pruning.

 

He began by referencing two books that are extremely useful:  Pruning and Training, by Joyce and Brickell, a reference work that covers basic principles, and works through a wide variety of plants by genus and species;  and The Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and Conifers, by George Brown.

 

One of the most important aspects of pruning is using the proper tools, which should be sharp.  Anvil pruners are not recommended, as they tend to crush the branch; by-pass cutters are preferable.  They should be clean, otherwise infestations can be transferred.  Lysol and bleach can be used to clean tools.  Folding blades are good, safe and portable.

 

Wounds should be cleaned after damage so that they can heal better. 

 

Pruning the wrong way can weaken a tree, and can introduce disease.  Things to be studied  include the manner in which a branch is attached, or the weight of leaves, etc.  Pruning should not be haphazard.

 

Suckers, out-of-place branches, damaged wood and criss-crossing branches should be pruned. 

 

The first principle is that dead, dying and diseased branches should be removed (including water sprouts – branches shooting straight up, that appear after damage or if the plant has been pruned at the wrong time.  Note that maples should be pruned in late summer).  Suckers appear at the base of the tree if it has been grafted, and grow from the root stock.  Once these have been removed, the structure of the tree can be seen.  Problems such as rubbing and crossing branches can then be identified.  After pruning one ends up with a more open plant that is less resistant to wind.  Branches should be well separated and at a good angle.  Start when the tree is young to create a healthy structure. 

 

Never close a wound – let it heal naturally.  A callus gradually works its way in and closes the wound.

 

When pruning a shade tree, maintain the lower branches in order to allow the strength of the trunk to increase.  The basics are:  1/3 tree cut, 1/3 tree pruned and 1/3 tree left as is.  Prune close to the trunk where a callus can more quickly cover the wound.  A good angle of attachment is important: a branch should be able to support itself.  It is best to prune close to the collar at the base of the branch.  The suggested angle is approximately 16% so that water will run off during callusing.  If pruning with secateurs, always cut with the blade close to the trunk.

 

When cutting large, heavy branches, first cut further out than the intended cut: undercut, then top cut down.  This means that there is less chance of damage and tearing with the final cut as there is less weight.

 

Be careful not to damage bark ridges.

 

Prune to maintain a dominant leader – do not top trees!  This is a death sentence for a tree as the centre will rot.

 

Root pruning is usually done around the water line of the tree.  Prune on a 3-foot gap basis.  Two years later, cut areas that weren’t cut the first time.  Root pruning triggers root growth close to the trunk and increases stability.

 

Up to 30% of live wood can be cut.  Timing of tree pruning – late summer.  Shrubs differ with different flowering times.

 

Nairn thanked Mr. Gibbens at the conclusion of his talk.